Grenache Gris: small by mighty
Rumour has it, that if you ask people in the know to name the most promising white wine variety in Roussillon, Grenache Gris is likely to be their answer. So, what does Grenache Blanc’s pink-skinned cousin has to offer that others don’t?
Traditionally co-planted alongside the other Grenaches (blanc & noir), Grenache Gris was often used to bring balance and texture to the thick-skinned Grenache Noir dominated blends. Much of it was planted across Roussillon during the region’s peak Vins Doux Naturels (Fortified Sweet Wines) production era, mostly in AOPs like Rivesaltes, Banyuls or Maury.
Today 1,107 hectares are planted with Grenache Gris in Roussillon. To put this in context, it represents half the plantings of Muscat Petits grains (2,135 ha) and a bit less than Grenache Blanc (1,283 ha).
Plantings of Grenache Gris have increased by 19% since 2016. Its rise in popularity is attributed to its versatility as well as its promise for quality solo-varietal expression. In the context of rising demand for white wines and lighter styles, producers are looking at their white grape repertoire and refining their blends and varietals.
Why is Grenache Gris such an attractive proposition?
On a practical level, it is a very robust variety, able to resist extreme draught conditions. It is well adapted to a variety of soils and terroirs – a very important characteristic in the context of climate change.
It is a fantastic grape to use in white blends adding complexity and character (acidity, minerality and structure) to Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Roussanne and other varietals. It can also be used in red blends to bring a touch of balance and finesse.
Grenache Gris also has the potential to be vinified in many different ways and produce white, rosé, orange, dry, sparkling and both oxydised and non-oxydised fortified sweet styles. Its rosés and orange wines are on the right side of aromatic, and boast moreish notes of citrus, like mandarin, orange and kumquat.
But most importantly, it is its huge, relatively untapped, potential for exceptional whites that sets it apart, especially from those preserved old-vine Grenache Gris vineyard sites.
Roussillon’s Grenache Gris is very expressive. Bright zesty citrus leads the aromatic charge, and floral notes of almond tree, aniseed and fennel add delightful complexity. Mineral and elegant it displays characteristic notes of gunpowder, a touch earthy and lightly smoky. Its texture is deep and rounded.
Some of the best expressions of Grenache Gris to try, available in the UK market:
IGP Côtes Catalanes, Les Vignerons de Maury, Nature de Schiste Blanc, White, 2024 – 100% Grenache Gris
IGP Côtes Catalanes, Domaine Jones, Grenache Gris Vieilles Vignes, White, 2018 – £18.25, from Fareham Wine Cellar. 100% Grenache Gris from old-vine vineyard.
IGP Côtes Catalanes, Château Saint-Roch, Tangerina, Orange, 2022 – £17.99, from Hendley Wright Wine Merchants. A blend of Grenache Gris, Viogner and Muscat.
AOP Côtes du Roussillon, Domaine le Roc des Anges, Vieilles Vignes “llum”, White, 2022 – £31.85 from Les Caves de Pyrènes. Blend of Grenache Gris, Macabeu et Grenache Blanc.
AOP Rivesaltes Ambré, Parcé Frères, Rivesaltes Ambré, Amber, 20 Ans – £23, from The Wine Society. Blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu.
