Sweet birthday celebrations
The mood is festive in Roussillon this year with three AOPs celebrating big birthdays.
As AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes turns 70 and AOP Rivesaltes and AOP Maury blow their 90 candles, we reflect on Roussillon’s winemaking history and the evolution of its Vins Doux Naturels (VDNs).
Our three ‘birthday’ AOPs were the very first ones to be created in Roussillon in 1936 and 1956. Roussillon’s more recent history, marked by the region’s move towards the production of dry wines, is mirrored by the evolution of the Maury appellation itself, and the creation of the Maury Sec AOP in 2011.
VDNs are some of the oldest French wines, going back to the 13th century. The discovery in 1285 of mutage (fortification) by Arnau de Vilanova, a doctor, physician and theologist at the court of the Mallorca kings in Perpignan, revolutionised the wine making process and gave birth to Roussillon’s famous fortified sweet wines. Neutralising the yeasts with the addition of neutral grape alcohol during the alcoholic fermentation meant that wine was stabilised, keeping for a long time all the while preserving fresh aromas and flavours. Roussillon’s VDNs travelled far and wide to European courts and, later, to a newly founded America where it is rumoured that Thomas Jefferson was a keen aficionado.
Mass production and savvy wine merchants drove a boom in consumption that reached its peak in the mid-seventies. The subsequent decline in demand for VDNs was the catalyst for Roussillon’s wine revolution: a shift towards qualitative low volume production, terroir-led and dry wines.
Today, Roussillon’s total VDNs production still accounts for 75% of France’s national output. Volumes are small but wineries adapted their offer to favour small production handcrafted and aged wines that will appeal to connoisseurs for their quality and character – as well as for the extraordinary value for money they often represent. The UK is the third top importer of VDNs from Roussillon, both in terms of volume (267hl, 8%) and value (585 k€, 10%).
Ageing techniques to preserve the youth of the wine or oxidation are skilfully applied to create a variety of styles (white, rosé, red, amber and tawny) and defined aromatic profiles. The ancestral know-how handed down from generation to generation has been fiercely preserved and enhanced by modern winemaking techniques. Low intervention vineyard management, careful grape selection and harvesting, precise temperature-control in the cellar, experimentation with fermentation and ageing vessels, have transformed the ability of winemakers to craft balanced and refined wines with precise acid / structure / alcohol / sugar ratio.
VDNs shine at the table and food pairing is no longer confined to desserts. They will pair wonderfully with sweet and savoury recipes. A Maury Ambré served alongside a veal sweetbread in mushroom sauce will create perfect harmony. An aged Muscat de Rivesaltes or a Rivesaltes Ambré also pairs masterfully with north African, Indian and Asian cuisines. There are infinite pairings with cheese; Maury, Muscat de Rivesaltes and Rivesaltes are the perfect companions to Roquefort.
And for those sweet birthday treats? The combinations are legendary, Maury Tuilé with dark chocolate torte, Rivesaltes Ambré with sticky toffee pudding, Muscat de Rivesaltes with orange crème brulée or Maury and Rivesaltes Grenat with black fruits sorbets.
Both oxydised and non-oxydised Vins Doux Naturels, with their aromatic qualities and fresh acidity, show their versatility as a base or key ingredient in cocktails. Seasonal offerings, like Muscat de Noël, with its sweet, fruity, and aromatic profile lend themselves perfectly to festive cocktail recipes. The 14th century tradition of setting aside the first muscat of the year to be enjoyed young, vibrant and fresh, still alive and celebrated 800 years on.
So, let’s honour tradition and look to the future by raising a glass to the beautiful wines of Maury, Rivesaltes and Muscat de Rivesaltes. Many happy returns of the day!
To find out more: Discover Vins Doux Naturels of Roussillon
